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Phone: 410-563-2666
Fax: 410-563-0222
1019 E. Lombard Street
Baltimore, Maryland 21202 |
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New York cuisine via Corned Beef Row |
By: Dan Piepenbring
Special to Metromix
February 1 2007--
If you visit Attman's Deli on a Saturday afternoon, as I did, you'll likely
encounter a line of customers snaking out the door, sometimes growing
to lengths
that make fire marshals bite their nails. I was all set to assume that
this many
people couldn't be wrong, but then I remembered waiting in line for a
water ride
back in 1993, only to find that it was disappointingly subpar. I
didn't want to
leave Attman's as I had left that amusement park - cold, angry and
reeking of
chlorine.
Fortunately, I can assure you that the wait at Attman's is worth it. But then,
you've probably heard that by now, as Attman's has a well-cemented reputation
among Charm City's cheap eats fanatics. The deli is inarguably the
most popular
on Corned Beef Row, that cordial line of Jewish eateries that has long since
cooked its way into the history books. Attman's menu advertises itself as an
"Authentic New York Delicatessen (Only Better)." Indeed, Attman's is not only
proud of its heritage but refreshingly arrogant about it. Customers who choose
to eat in can also do so in "Stuart Attman's World Famous Kibbitz Room."
Attman's main counter is plastered with signage, making for plenty of
interesting reading while you wait to order. In fact, you might find yourself
searching for the menu amid all the marginalia, which includes instructions on
how to talk to the employees ("CORNED BEEF, RYE, MUSTARD - PERIOD") and how to
pay with food stamps. Feminists will cluck their tongues at a drawing of a
tastefully nude woman -- save the cowboy hat -- whose backside has been
apportioned and labeled as meat. (Her arm is a Jewish hot dog, but her ass is
"HOT PASTRAMI.")
Despite the hustle and bustle of deli life, Attman's employees manage to be
efficient and helpful. They have a keen eye for newcomers and listened
patiently
as I scrambled to order. To help keep things moving, they often bark orders at
each other in some unintelligible delicatessen shorthand that is
always a treat
to hear. While I opted to get the classic corned beef sandwich
($5.99), Attman's
"World Famous Combination Sandwiches" have names that make them
equally tempting
-- the "Gay Liveration" ($7.99), for instance, which features chopped
liver, or
the "Tongue Fu" ($12.49), for anyone itching for a mouthful of beef tongue.
If none of this is convincing, look no f urther than the beverage
case, which has
a surprisingly decent beer selection and -- the coup de grace -- Royal Crown
Cola. That's right: your days of Coke and Pepsi are over. R.C. Cola, that
lovable long-time underdog, is available front-and-center at Baltimore's
preeminent deli. And if that doesn't make you want to go, nothing will.
Dish: Assuming that Attman's is actually "World Famous," it's because of the
corned beef sandwich, a no-frills piece of bovine heaven that tastes straight
out of New York City, except that it's from Baltimore. If you've never been to
Attman's before, this is the thing to try -- and if you're a regular, this is
probably the reason why.
Damage: At $5.99, the sandwich isn't exactly the bargain of the century, but
when you see the amount of corned beef you get, you won't be
complaining. Top it
off with a can of R.C. Cola -- or, if you're a square, one of the more
mainstream brands -- for another buck, and you'll still be walking out with at
least enough coin to buy a gumball.
Decision: Vegetarians and snobs should get out and stay out, but for most of
Baltimore, this should be the deli of choice. They don't call it "Corned Beef
Row" for nothing, after all.
Source: http://baltimore.metromix.com/
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